#11 November, 1997
November brings an amalgam of feelings to this northern sailor. A sigh of relief is heard as the crane gently nudges the hull onto the trailer support stantions. But a melancholy feeling spreads as the pantry items are downloaded to be stored for the winter. Once the engine and water systems are winterized, we give a sad farewell and a loving pat to the hull of NO NEWS, #76, as we return home with a Suburban full of boat stuff. The quote from Ferenc Mate puts true value on the summer, "There is more to sailing than ropes and winches, cleats and bulging sails. There are faraway places and the ever changing light, and the silence, and a great peace at the bottom of your soul."
We have replaced our original Combi Instrument system with the Horizion electronic Sailpack (from West Marine, $1369) and a repeater ($316) for the nav station. We haven't been able to test it yet as the final installation was done with the mast tied on deck. If anyone needs the old Combi owners manual, installation instructions, or any parts of the 1978 system, please let us know. G & N Saint
RECALL - The November 1997 Cruising World and the October Sailing magazine carried a recall notice for Port Supply Lifeslings sold between 1992 and 1993 which were made with NON-stainless steel D-rings. We tested ours with the magnet as instructed and found it to be defective i.e. magnetic and rusting. We cut off the webbing strap and the D-ring, mailed it to Howard Wright, Port Supply, 500 Westridge Drive, Watsonville, CA 95076. Within five - ten days we received a new lifesling.
The new one comes with the newer softer polyester line which is so much nicer to work with.
Alice & Ed Girvin, #68, received our help via E-Mail, locating Lyle Hess in California. They were planning a trip, celebrating their 45th!! anniversary, to Austrilia/NewZealand with a stopover in Los Angeles. A visit with Lyle prompted this report: "Lyle is in great physical shape except for very poor eyesight, nearly blind, but he is lonely. He made us promise that we would send him a picture of the two of us along with our CALYPSO. It would be great if other owners would do this too. Lyle is in his 80's and a wonderful loving, kind man. If you every get the chance to see him, please do so. He loved his boats and the people who bought them."
Lyle receives our Newsline and can be reached at: Katella Manor, 3952 Katella Ave., Los Alamitos, CA 90720 (714)894-2864.
A great idea has been launched. Why not have a lending library of videos of Nor'Seas at sail, small improvements, or custom ideas. Make a video of your boat, interior, exterior and/or sailing, and send it to the editors, Gale & Nancy Saint. We will be glad to circulate them among owners. The idea was planted by the Northern California Owner's BOAT CRAWL. This way we can all enjoy seeing one anothers boats. Thanks Greg, for a fine idea. Now send us your videos.
Computer news -
‚The Northern Calif web page at http://www.vander-bend.com/norsea/ continues to be updated. What a great site! Check out the photos and send yours along to Steve Wolf, 15 Saddleback, Portola Valley, CA 94028.
‚If you have some favorite recipes to use while on board, they should be sent to the webmaster, Marth Beth Lewis: firstname.lastname@example.org
‚Another Nor'Sea site www.sosinc.net/nor'sea/index.htm is produced by Larry Jackson, #101, TUMBLEWEED. He suggests we register a domain name such as "NorSeaowners.com". Larry would do the paperwork for free and be the administrative contact. The cost of $100 for 2 years would be covered by donations from interested owners. Please let Larry know your thoughts at email@example.com
‚A neat web site for sailors can be seen at: www.sailingbreezes.com Note the story on sailing Mexico "Truth in Cruising" by Jim Sparks.
NORTHERS CALIFORNIA OWNERS MEET
Greg Delezynski reports "Well,..... I have some news about the Oct 18 & 19 cruise-in and video boat crawl. At 11:00 AM, Saturday morning, still in deep fog, we decided since we were hosting this gathering, and it might not be foggy in the upper bay, where most of the Nor'Seas are located, we would set off for the Marina. Visibility was just under 1/4 mile. Thank goodness for GPS!!! I had plugged in the waypoints a few days ago, so we ran on it all the way. When we were about 1.7 miles from the San Leandro channel, I did manage to pick out the markers. To make a long story short, only 2 boats were able to make it, GUENEVERE, #80 and WINGS, #95, Gary & Mari Campbell. It was foggy all over the bay! We were joined by another couple who were very interested in Nor'Seas. After enjoying good talks, good food and good friends, WINGS and GUENEVERE departed around 1400 on Sunday. The ride home was sloppy with short steep chop! WINGS was ahead of us, and at times I could plainly see their bowsprit pointing at the sky! It makes you feel GOOD to know how well our boat can handle it! Our course allowed us to set our reefed jib, and fall off a bit to quarter the waves. As we were putting things in place after the trip, I found we had bounced enough to pop open the chain locker door! Another thing to put on the to-do list, "find a better way to secure the inside doors."
Greg & Jill, GUENEVERE, #80
We received a panic call from Paul Lepisto one evening from Duluth, MN, where he was taking posession of his newly purchased NorSea27 #369. How would he get the mast down? How would he trailer the boat? Gale and I both tried to reassure him that it was entirely possible to do both with a few instructions. Here is how we do it.
We have lowered and raised the Nor'Sea mast both in a slip and on the trailer with equal confidence. Watch the wind strength and direction as you position your boat. We had to remove a cleat mounted on the front of the mast, which would hit the forward hatch as the mast was lowered. Unplug the wiring and watch any wires that come up through the base of the mast. We remove the two haylard turning blocks from the mast step and attach one to each triangle plate on the upper shroud or the D rings. We attach the jibsheets to the aft end of the boom and run each sheet through the blocks on the traingles, and then to the jibsheet winches. This line will have some slack before the mast comes down.
Replace the mainsheet with a line that is at least 100' following the same 2-1 purchase. Disconnect the aft lower shrouds. Then disconnect the backstay (we forgot that one time and couldn't figure why the mast wouldn't come down- duh).
Usually I handle easing the line through the mainsheet cleat and Gale "catches" the mast.
Once the mast is down, it is extremely bow heavy because so much of it extended over the bow. Keeping the mast still pinned at the mast step, tie a loose line over it at the bow and another loose line over it just forward of the mast step. Remove the boom, which is much easier said than done. We can send a copy of the original instructions that came with the boat if anyone needs them.
Greg Delezynski, #80, GUENEVERE, mentioned that the book, Sailors Sketch Book - paperback 8½ by 11, by Bruce Bingham includes an excellent series on mast lowering, p32-36. Greg uses a set of truck tiedowns he got at Home Depot for his bridle to the boom, where we use the jib sheets.
While talking with Ellen and Ed Zacko, #44, ENTR'ACTE, about anchors and line, Ed mentioned that he would like to do a video of the mast lowering and raising. Great idea! We will let you know when he has this available.
Frank Hooper, #16, KALOLINA, writes "On the bow I used a board 1 ½" thick which is secured on the bow rail. Using two U bolts, I drilled two holes for the u bolts in each side, inserted the bolt around the bow rail up through the board and put on a backing plate then wing nuts or aircraft locking nuts. The board also has a trailer roller and bracket installed on it which I purchased at West Marine.
Now you can lower the mast to the bow on the roller then you can roll it backward till you rest the mast on the boom gallows.. This idea I got from Greg on GUENEVERE, #80."
Frank continues, "I then support the middle of the mast with a 4x4 cut to the correct height and with two 2x4 ears screwed to the sides of the 4x4 to keep it centered under the mast. I then reinsert the mast bolt through the 4x4 and the tabernacle."
‚Tom Scott, #245, KARMA, asks if any boat owners can share their experience with feathering prop - especially Cruising Design, Max Prop or Auto Prop?
One year report on CopperPoxy Bottom coating -
Greg & Jill Delezynski, #80, GUENEVRE, submit the following report: "In late September 1996 we sanded ALL old bottom paint from GUENEVERE, #80. On October, 6 & 7, 1996 we coated the bottom as directed in the instructions that were provided with the CopperPoxy, using 1.25 gallons. The product was almost the consistency of a light putty, which made application a bit harder than expected. The boat was put in the water on October 8, 1996 and has remained in the water, without any below the water cleaning, since that time. The boat is birthed in Peninsula Marina, Redwood City, Cal in the south end of San Francisco Bay. Since the marina is almost landlocked, the water does not move a lot, and is very good for stimulating marine growth! As liveaboard, we sail the boat as often as every other weekend during good weather, as little as once a month or less during the winter. Below the waterline we can see soft growth as predicted by the manufacturer. This soft growth comes off very easy with a light brushing. We have also noticed that after a short bash to windward, we can no longer see any of the soft growth on areas washed by brisk waves.
On September 13 of this year we had a diver clean, inspect and report on the condition of the boat. His findings were:
In some small areas he could see the white undercoat of the hull through brush strokes. We had not applied the product as well as we should have. On this white area that showed through, small amounts of green algae was present. The prop (bronze) was very heavily covered in hard growth. This took some time to clean. The zinc on the prop shaft was about 80% gone, not bad at all for one full year in the water. He suggested that from now on, I replace it on a twice a year basis. NO hard growth was found on any part of the boat protected by the CopperPoxy. He than stated that it was one of the cleanest bottoms he had done insome time, and questioned me if I had truly had this in the water for a full year without any cleaning.
We would say the product is performing as advertised at this point. It is our intention to do a haul and pressure wash in November, touch up the light spots, and raise the bottom coating the 3 inches, along with a few other work items required. At that time we will take a few pictures and pass them on to the NorCal Nor'Sea WEB site: http://www.vander-bend.com/norsea
The CopperPoxy was purchased from:
American Marine Coatings
1445 North Northlake Way
Seattle, WA 98103
We have just ordered four one quart kits, for the upcoming haul out.
We will provide another report in one year.
If you have any further questions you may contact us by E-Mail - firstname.lastname@example.org or by phone at (650)261-1391
Greg had to do some major heart surgery on his computer, but he is back up and answering his E-Mail!
Other information about CopperPoxy is in the November 15, 1997 issue of Practical Sailor Magazine.
Frank Hooper, #16, KALOLINA, writes "I have just had a great experience finding an honest distributor that will help the customer and not gouge him. Entec West is the distributor for Farymann (correct spelling) Diesel engine parts. They have new parts for the original Farymann engines which were in the factory completed NorSea's, Downeasters, Cals and others. Dave Oostmann, one of the owners at Entec spent over 30 minutes on the phone helping me solve an engine overheating problem and educating me on the Farymann engine (unfortunately they stopped making new Marine versions a few years ago)
Attn: Dave Oostmann
16710 SW 72nd Street
Portland, OR 97224
503-639-2764 Voice and Fax
voice @ 800-458-5065
This company also manufactures a Diesel Genset, rebuilds the Farymann marine engines and has parts in stock 99% of the time.
PS: Some boat yards and dealers are using the lack of this information to hustle boat owners into buying another manufacture's engine when they could repair the Farymann.
Frank Hooper, #16, KALOLINA, also has price quotes from Rail Makers in Newport Beach Calif for various stainless steel Items. They are Bob Eeg's supplier for the Nor'Sea stainless products
Contact Dave at:
864 West 18th street
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
Fax is 714-842-8066
Nor'Sea items are: COD plus freight charge via Mastercharge or Visa
Bow rail $510
Stern Rail $215
Stern with traveler $380
Forward Gate $ 63
Aft Gate $ 92
Stantion $ 27
Stove bar $ 65
Be careful though as measurements could be a bit different from the original equipment. The designs have changed over the years. It is best to send drawings and measurements for a quote. Then have a confirming fax back to you to insure they are right. For example I widened the area on the stern rail I ordered so that I had more tiller room. Dave will also make boom gallow stantions.
Bob Eeg responds to an inquiry about the molds for the Nor'Sea 27.
"Nor'Sea yachts still owns the molds and tooling for the 27 and 37. The molds have never been out of Nor'Seas boatshop. The Nor'Sea 27 is still in production (with 3 under construction now) and one being shipped to Dearborn, Michigan in November. We also NOW own Montgomery Marine, Builders of the Lyle C. Hess designed Montgomery 15, Mongomery 17 and the Montgomery 23. The 23 needs a new deck mold and will be retooled over the winter and re-named the Nor'sea 23 Offshore Cutter. These little pocket cruisers have lapstrake hulls and look like little sisters to the 27! Jerry Montgomery will come down to Dana Point soon for the "launching party". We will try to get Lyle Hess to come out for an afternoon visit. If you ever need any advice or parts feel free to ask!"
Seas The Day, Bob Eeg
Nor'Sea Yachts(a Nevada Corp)
Dana Point, CA 92629
(714)489-8227 Voice Mail
COMING NEXT ISSUE
‚Holding tanks and head replacement
‚Oil Filters - Yanmar and others